Greetings Fellow Watch Enthusiasts!

Accutron: The first electronic watch, controlled by a tuning fork and launched by Bulova in 1960.

Acrylic Crystal: Sometimes referred to as Hesolite or Hesalite, an acrylic crystal is basically plastic. Polymethylacrylate is often used. Benefits of an acrylic crystal are that is flexes rather than shatters on impact, it doesn't produce too much glare under bright light and it can be polished easily.

Agate: A variety of the quartz group that exists in many different colours and is opaque. This ornamental gemstone is sometimes used for watch dials.

Aiguilles: (French) The hands of a clock or watch. The cuvette of a Swiss or French key-wound watch is sometimes stamped AIGUILLES as a warning that the hands are set through the nearby hole rather than by placing the key directly over the exposed end of the cannon pinion in the centre of the dial.

Alarm: Alarm functions may be fitted (most commonly) to battery powered quartz watches; the alarm with beep at the pre-set time. There are mechanical alarm watches featuring a hammer which produces the alarm sound at the pre-set time.

Alarum: Horologists seem to prefer this Shakespearean spelling for a clock or watch that sounds an alarm at a pre-set time. Alarum mechanisms are found on some of the earliest mechanical timekeepers and were being fitted to timekeeping devices before 1600.

All-or-nothing piece: A system that prevents an insufficiently wound striking mechanism from striking too few hours.

Alloy: Combination of two or more pure molten metals. Generally, an alloy is given the name of the dominant metal.

Altimeter: A function that provides altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure, commonly found in pilot watches. Note that inside a pressurized airplane cabin, the altimeter will register as if on land.

American guage: A system of gauging the sizes of watch movements. Size 0 equals 1.167" or 29.63mm and each step upwards or downwards consists of a step of 0.0333" (0.846mm); size 18, the largest in common use, is 1.688" (45.72mm). Sizes below 0 are expressed (in diminishing order) as 2/0, 3/0 and so on downwards, 1/0 being omitted. The American gauge, like the Lancashire gauge which was its source, measures the diameter of the front plate.

Amplitude: Sometimes used to describe the frequency of a mechanical movement, however seems more often used to describe the angle of oscillation of the balance wheel either side of its neutral position. This would therefore be measured in degrees, for example 'an amplitude of 270 degrees'.

Analog (also spelled Analogue): Analog simply refers to the means of showing the time on a watch dial by means of hands which point to the hours, minutes and usually seconds.

Analog Digital: A watch that has both a digital display and hands of a conventional watch. Usually featured on sport watch styles.

Analog quartz: The most commonly-used term in referring to any analog timepiece that operates on a battery or on solar power and is regulated by a quartz crystal.

Anchor: The anchor, sometimes referred to as Swiss anchor helps perform the final part of the mechanical process in a mechanical watch in order to divide the seconds and provide accurate timekeeping. Moving side to side, the anchor allows the final wheel (escape wheel) to rotate one cog at a time. This process produces the ticking sound of a mechanical watch.

Ancre: The French term for the lever escapement in its usual 20th-century form, with the arm that carries the pallets mounted at a right angle to the lever itself so as to give a rough likeness to an anchor.

Arbor: The axle or shaft on which a wheel or pinion is mounted.

Arcading: A distinctive treatment of the minute track on some 18th-century watches; between each pair of hour numerals the track is

shaped in an ornamental semicircle. This pattern is especially associated with Dutch watches. Atmosphere (Atm): Unit of pressure used in watch making to indicate water-resistance.

Atomic time standard: Provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology, Time and Frequency Division, Boulder, Colorado, atomic time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a metal isotope that resembles mercury. The result is extremely accurate time that can be measured on instruments. Radio waves transmit this exact time throughout North America and some "atomic" watches can receive them and correct to the exact time.

Auto repeat timer: A feature that allows for continuous operation of a countdown timer. If timer function is set at one hour and started, it will countdown to zero, beep with a warning signal and immediately return to the preset time and start the countdown again. This would continue until stop button is pushed.

Automatic: Automatic or automatic watches usually refers to those mechanical watches which wind themselves by means of a swinging mass or rotor (which rotates by arm movement) which through a series of gears, winds the mainspring which in turn powers the watch.

Baguette: Ladies style watch with a thin, elongated face; usually rectangular in shape but may be oval.

Balance-wheel: The regulating organ of the watch, vibrating on a spiral hairspring. Lengthening or shortening the balance-spring makes the balance-wheel go faster or slower to advance or slow the timekeeping.

Bar: A small rod with a sprung pivot at either end to fix the strap (band) to the case.

Barrel: Thin cylindrical box containing the mainspring of a watch. The toothed rim of the barrel drives the train.

Base metal: Any non-precious metal.

Battery: Device that converts chemical energy into electricity. Most watch batteries are silver oxide type delivering 1.5 volts. Much longer-lasting lithium batteries are 3 volt.

Battery Life: The minimum period of time that a battery will continue to provide power to run the watch. Life begins at the point of manufacture when the factory initially installs the battery.

Bezel: The surface ring on the watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in place. A rotating ratchet bezel moves in some sport watches as part of the timing device. If rotating bezels are bi-directional, able to move clockwise or counter clockwise, they can assist in calculations for elapsed times.

Bracelet: Flexible metal band consisting of assembled links, usually in the same style as the case. detachable links change the length of the bracelet.

Brass: Copper and zinc alloy used to make the main plate and bridge wheels of many movements, and sometimes the cases of inexpensive watches.

Buckle: Mechanical device that closes a strap or bracelet around the wrist. They may be tang, single deployant, or dual deployant in design.

Button: Push piece controls, usually at 2 o'clock and/or 4 o'clock on the dial to control special functions such as the chronograph or the alarm.

Cabochon crown: A rounded semi-precious stone or synthetic material fitted into the watch crown and/or pushers as an ornament.

Calendar: A watch complication that shows the date and sometimes the day of the week and the month. It can be displayed through a cut-out window in the dial, as a sud-dial with small hands indicating the day/date feature, or by digital readout.

Caliber (calibre): The dimensions of the watch or movement. Caliber describes the size and configuration of the movement and can indicate the shape, origin and manufacturer as well.

Cambered: Refers to a curved or arched dial or bezel.

Carat (Karat): Unit of gold fineness (and gemstone weight). Pure gold is 24k. 18k gold is 75% pure.

Case: The housing of a watch's movement. Stainless steel is the most typical metal used but also titanium, gold, silver, and platinum can be used. Less expensive watch cases are usually made of brass.

Chronograph: A stopwatch function built into a wristwatch. Most have two or three sub dials for measuring minutes and hours.

Chronometer: A precision watch that is set in various temperatures and positions, thus meeting the accuracy standards set by an official watch institute in Switzerland. Most watch companies either provide this certificate with a purchase or it can be mailed to you.

Clasp: The attachment used to connect the two ends of the watch bracelet or strap around the wrist. • Single Deployant Buckle- A dual-folding enclosure, which secures the two ends of the bracelet and allows enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism. • Dual Deployant Buckle- Same as above, but with three folds instead of two. • Fold-Over Buckle—describes either of the above.

Complication: Another function besides time keeping. For example, a chronograph is a watch complication. other complications coveted by watch collectors include: minute repeater, tour billion, perpetual calendar, or split second chronograph.

Corrector: System to set the watch indicators (the hour, minute or day) by means of the crown.

Countdown timer: Measures remaining time from preset period of time. (Example: Can be used to countdown time of a basketball game.)

Crown: Nodule extending from the case that is used to set the time, date, etc. Most pull out to set the time. In water resistant styles, the crowns may screw down to secure properly.

Crystal: The transparent cover over the watch face. Three types of crystals are commonly found in watches. Acrylic crystal, a plastic, is inexpensive and shallow scratches can be buffed out. Mineral crystal is comprised of several elements that are heat treated to create unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches. Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable, approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and 20 time harder than acrylic crystals. A non-reflective coating on some styles prevents glare.

Day/date watch: A watch that indicates not only the date but the day of the week.

Dial: The watch face. The numerals, indices, or surface design are usually applied; others may be molded or printed.

Digital: Any watch that shows the time in numbers instead of hands on the dial. The numbers can appear in LCD (liquid crystal diode) which shows a continuous reading or in LED (light-emitting diode) which shows time at the push of a button. The time can also be displayed via mechanical wheels showing through one or more windows.

Display: Indication of time or other data, either by means of hands moving over a dial (analog display) or by means of numerals appearing in one or more windows (digital or numerical display). Such displays can be generated by mechanical or electronic means.

Divers Watch: A watch that meets various standards regarding water resistance, pressure resistance, readability in the water, time presetting function (rotating elapsed time bezel), anti-magnetic ability, anti-shock, rust resistance in salt water, manageability in water, ability to withstand sudden temperature changes, etc. The rotating bezel will only rotate counter clockwise. this is so in case rotated accidentally the bezel will not show an extended diving duration. For accurate setting, this bezel also has a one minute interval click. Straps or bracelets feature extra large buckles for easy fastening and longer length to allow it to be worn over a diving suit. The bezel may be set higher than the surface of the crystal to help protect it. Large luminous hands and markers are designed for clear readability.

Dual timer: A watch that measures current local time as well as at least one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial, extra hand, subdials, or other means.

End of Life (E.O.L.): In quartz movement the end of battery life is indicated by the seconds hand which starts to jump every four seconds. The battery should be changed immediately.

Electroplating: Process of covering metal articles with a film of other metals. The article is immersed in a chemical solution; electric current (D.C.) flows through the solution from a piece of metal (anode) to the article (cathode), depositing metal thereon by electrolysis. Precious metals which can be used for plating include gold, chrome, and palladium. Other materials can produce additional colors such as black or blue. Engine: synonym for a watch movement.

Face: Another term for the dial of a watch. Most are decorated with Arabic or Roman numerals. Note: traditionally IIII, rather than IV, is used to indicate the 4 o'clock position in Roman numeral styling. Flyback chronograph: A deceptively complex chronograph which uses a single push of the button for stopping, resetting and restarting the chronograph function of the watch. A flyback chronograph usually has the crown at 3 o'clock and pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock. The flyback function is controlled by the button at 4 o'clock whereas the one at 2 o'clock is used to start and stop the timed session.

Frequency: The number of vibrations a second, in hertz (Hz).

Glass: Generic term used to describe the clear material making up a watch crystal.

Guilloche: A style of intricate decorative engraving on watch dials, usually comprised of very thin lines interwoven to create a surface design and/or texture.

Hand: The pointing device anchored at the center and circling around a dial indicating hours, minutes, seconds, and any other special features of the watch. Styles include: • Alpha: A slightly tapered hand. • Baton: A narrow hand sometimes referred to as a stick hand. • Dauphine: A wide, tapered hand with a facet at the center running the length of the hand. • Luminous: Hands treated with luminous material. • Skeleton: Cut-out hands showing only the frame.

Hard metal: A scratch-resistant metal comprised of binding several materials, including titanium and tungsten-carbide, which are then pressed into an extremely hard metal and polished with diamond powder to add brilliance. High-tech ceramic: Used as a protective shield for spacecraft reentering the earth's atmosphere, high tech ceramic is polished with diamond dust to create a highly polished finish. Because the ceramic can be injection molded, pieces can be contoured. It has a very smooth surface, and while usually found in black can be produced in a spectrum of colors, and is prized for its superior scratch resistance.

Horology: The science of time measurement, including the art of designing and constructing timepieces.

Hourly time signal: Single beep/chime which rings on the hour, every hour when it is engaged.

Impulse: The moment of contact between the escapement and the balance which allows the power of the mainspring to be momentarily fed through to the balance, so that it keeps moving instead of drifting to a halt.

Impulse pin: In a lever escapement, a pin made of ruby, mounted on a steel disc called the roller which is fitted to and concentric with the balance-staff. This pin engages in the fork of a lever and receives impulses from it, thus keeping the balance moving. Also called roller jewel.

Incabloc: Incabloc is a trade name for a type of shock absorbing device/spring used to protect the delicate parts of the mechanical watch escapement. Mentioned here as it is probably the most widely used and some watch manufacturers used to draw attention to it by referring to it on the watch dial itself.

Index/Indices: Usually refers to the markings on the dial of a watch showing hours and minutes. Can however refer to the markings on the regulator of a watch movement to aid precision adjustment for accurate timekeeping.

Isochronous/isochronism: A oscillating object such as a balance-spring is said to be isochronous, or to show isochronism, when it takes exactly the same length of time to accomplish each swing or arc irrespective of the distance covered; thus it beats at the same pace whether it is being driven strongly or weakly. The ordinary flat balance-spring as introduced in the 1670s was only roughly isochronous (and has often grown even less so with time through metal-fatigue, especially in verge watches). Precision makers of the next century devised various special configurations to make this quality more complete; Breguet's overcoil was the most successful of these and the only one which survives today.

Jewels: In the mechanical watch and some quartz watches, jewels (usually made from synthetic ruby) are used as bearings for those parts of the movement subject to constant motion. They are not valuable at all in the monetary sense but they are valuable in aiding the precise running of a watch over a long period and reducing wear. It is a fallacy that the more jewels the better the watch. A basic handwound mechanical usually comprises 17 jewels which in the main is the optimum count. Automatics may require more for the winding mechanism itself. In the 1960s there appeared to be a competition to see who could fit the most jewels in a watch movement, manufacturers proudly referred to 100 Jewels on the dial; opening the watch usually revealed that up to 80% of these jewels had no purpose and were simply mounted here and there on the movement to up the jewel count.

Jumping Hour: System of timekeeping whereby the seconds and minutes are shown by traditional hands but the hour is shown in a dial cutout (often at 12), on the minutes hand reaching 59 minutes, the hour disc under the dial will jump to the next hour.

Karussel: A slow-turning variety of tourbillon devised by Bonniksen of Coventry (U.K.) in 1894.

Key-wound/key set: refers to a mechanical design requiring a watch to be both wound and set by the insertion of a key, usually fitting over a square shaped shaft. This concept was largely restricted to pocket watches, and usually prior to circa 1900.

Kif: A trade name for a shock absorbing system; in a similar vein to Incabloc.

Latitude: The angle from a point on the Earth's surface and the equatorial plane, measured from the center of the sphere. Lines joining points of the same latitude are called parallels, which trace concentric circles on the surface of the Earth, parallel to the equator. The north pole is 90° N; the south pole is 90° S. The 0° parallel of latitude is designated the equator. The equator is the fundamental plane of all geographic coordinate systems, dividing the globe into Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

LCD Display: Or Liquid Crystal Display; used for the display on most modern digital watches. Followed from the earlier LED or Light Emitting Diode display of the first quartz digital watches. The LCD was preferred as it used much less power than the LED thus the time could be shown constantly as opposed to having to press a button for time display.

Leaf: The word ‘teeth’, applied to the projections on a gear-wheel, is replaced by ‘leaves’ when speaking of a pinion.

Lever escapement: The standard escapement for domestic watches from about 1840 in Britain and the U.S.A. (1890 in Switzerland) until the rise of the quartz watch; it is still used in mechanical movements today. The ‘lever’ is a pivoted bar to which is attached an arm carrying two pallets, which alternately engage with the teeth of the escape-wheel; the other end of the lever is forked and engages with the impulse-pin which is mounted on a steel disc (the roller) centred on the balance-staff. The lever was invented by Thomas Mudge in 1757 and applied by a few 18th-century makers including Breguet; its use gradually spread after about 1815. It has two main forms: the side lever with the pallet-arm integral with and parallel to the lever (favoured by 19th-century British makers), and the straight-line lever in which the pallet-arm is at a right angle to the lever, preferred in America from about 1870 and afterwards universal.

Lever setting: A method of setting the hands by means of a lever (normally concealed under the bezel) which when pulled outward operates a clutch which releases the motion-work from the train, so that the hands can be pushed round manually without disturbing the running of the watch. This arrangement is found on many early stem-wound watches; pendant or stem setting was distrusted because it was felt that the crown might spring out or be pulled out accidentally, allowing the hands to get out of place.

Longitude: Position on the earth's surface eastward or westward of an agreed starting-point (meridian – usually the meridian-line at Greenwich Observatory, London), expressed in degrees, minutes and seconds. Identifying a ship's longitude when out of sight of known landmarks was a lasting problem, beset by so many variables that it could scarcely be done by observation alone. The simplest method was to carry on board an accurate timekeeper which showed the time at the chosen meridian, and compare it with the time at the ship's location as determined by observation of the sun; the difference between the two could be reliably translated into terms of distance, but the clock had to be of outstanding precision and reliability, since an error of only four seconds could represent as much as a mile if the ship were near the equator. John Harrison's fourth chronometer (1759) was the first practical solution.

Lugs: Protrusions on the case of a watch to which the bracelet or strap is fitted. Various types of lugs can be found such as rounded lugs, teardrop lugs and hidden lugs.